the flavor north

We noticed some differences in the cuisine when we went north.

In Chiclayo and Trujillo, the ceviche is simple–salt, lime, aji, onions–which produces a clean, pure taste. The texture, flavor, and freshness of the fish stand out. In Lima, the ceviche is more spiced; in addition to the above, cooks add a combination of garlic, ginger, celery, and cilantro.

Though, northerners sometimes make a creamy sauce from aji, eggs, and oil and pour it over the ceviche. It has a creamy, tangy flavor which should appeal to mayonnaise fans. (I'm not a mayonnaise fan.)

What surprised us most was the causa. Causa is a mashed potato dish that comes with chicken, fish, or vegetables. We were accustomed to causa Limeña, a somewhat sculpted affair: mashed potatoes in the shape of a rectangle, circle, ball, triangle, fish with filling in the middle. I've even seen it served like sushi rolls.

Causa Norteña is an entirely different matter. Underneath heaping portions of onions and aji is an entire fish (bones, head, and all). And under the fish is mashed potatoes, which is savory though somewhat soupy, unlike the grainy and tart Limeña version.









One final note, I found the best mandarins in Trujillo: seedless, easy to peel, fragrant, sweet, tangy, juicy. When I went back to find the fruit stand to buy more, the lady disappeared and I thought that perhaps it was a dream. But I looked down and saw the peels I still held in my hands, waking me, mocking me. Would it have been better to have tasted and lost than to never have tasted at all?